{"id":104,"date":"2016-07-07T20:40:24","date_gmt":"2016-07-07T20:40:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.brentblack.com\/cart\/?page_id=104"},"modified":"2016-07-13T23:24:53","modified_gmt":"2016-07-13T23:24:53","slug":"tour-cutting-excess-panama-hat-straw","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/hat-lore-overview\/tour-how-a-panama-hat-is-made\/tour-cutting-excess-panama-hat-straw\/","title":{"rendered":"The Cortador Cuts Off the Excess Straw"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Tour_10_01_02_Composite\"<\/p>\n

Some weavers leave lots of loose ends all over the\u00a0hat. All weavers leave loose ends at the brim edge. Even after the rematadora<\/em>\u00a0and the azocador<\/em> have woven the brim edge, the loose ends will\u00a0remain.<\/p>\n

\n

\"tour_10_03_viccor3_IMG_4118\"\"tour_10_04_hermc1\"<\/p>\n

After the azocador<\/em> finishes, the hat goes to the\u00a0cortador<\/em>.<\/p>\n

The cortador<\/em> will work on each hat, two maybe even three times, between when\u00a0it leaves the weaver and when it is ready for me.<\/p>\n

First, the cortador<\/em> quickly cuts the edge straw down to an inch-long fringe.\u00a0Then s\/he turns the hat inside out and begins to cut off the loose ends.<\/p>\n

In the photos to the left, Victoria and Hermelino are folding the hat so the\u00a0straw ends will stick up, making them easier to cut. They are cutting the\u00a0little ends of the vueltas<\/em>, or rings, in the top of the crown where the weaverspliced in more straw.<\/p>\n

They will continue with the scissors and cut the loose ends from the rest of\u00a0the hat. They will cut quickly this time, not closely.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Don

Don Rosendo Delgado I don\u2019t know what I would have done without him<\/p><\/div>\n

This is Rosendo Delgado. He is often the cortador<\/em> for his hats. He and\u00a0Victoria do the first cutting on almost all of their hats.<\/p>\n

I am very glad he is who I found when I first went hunting for hats in\u00a0Montecristi. We worked together for many years. He always had the most hats and\u00a0the best hats.<\/p>\n

He and Victoria helped me in extraordinary ways. They helped me distribute\u00a0food to weavers. They helped me find a doctor so I can provide medical service\u00a0<\/span>for weavers. They showed me how the hats are made. They helped me to learn.<\/span><\/p>\n

I have been privileged to do business with Don Rosendo and Dona Victoria for\u00a0almost twenty years.<\/p>\n

Victoria has twice gone to rescue hats for me from sellers who\u00a0\u201cforgot\u201d to send me the hats I had paid for.<\/p>\n

The first time, the dealer who had my money and my hats had died. Victoria\u00a0and a Peace Corps volunteer had to take my hats away from relatives more greedy\u00a0than grieving. They did it.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Nice

Nice hats. Don Rosendo looks at me as I look at hats. The hat I\u2019m inspecting won a trip to Hawaii. Photo \u00a9 2005 Roff Smith<\/small><\/p><\/div>\n

The second time was from her own nephew. He simply could not bring himself\u00a0to send me the hats I had paid for. He already had that money. And he had the\u00a0hats. If he sold those hats (again) he would have more money. Can\u2019t argue\u00a0with his logic. Just his ethics.<\/p>\n

Thank you, thank you, Victoria.<\/p>\n

Don Rosendo grew older. His health failed. A younger, stronger family became\u00a0the largest dealers. As\u00ed es la vida.<\/p>\n

Okay, back to making hats. Below, the cortador cuts the long straw at the\u00a0end of the brim.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\n

\"tour_10_07_IMG_5695\"\"tour_10_08_IMG_5706\"\"tour_10_09_IMG_5697\"<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

The cortador<\/em> saves the trimmed straw, below. He bundles\u00a0it, ties it with a straw, and saves the bundles in a bag. If this hat needs any\u00a0repairs, and almost all hats do, he will use the saved straw for the repairs so\u00a0it will match perfectly.<\/p>\n

\n

\"tour_10_10_IMG_5700\"\"tour_10_11_gabc5_IMG_5698\"\"tour_10_12_IMG_5335\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"tour_10_13_IMG_5417\"\"tour_10_14_gabc102_IMG_5421\"The cortador works quickly, but carefully.<\/p>\n

\n

\"tour_11_teaser\"Next: the hats are washed and bleached before\u00a0they go to the apaleador.<\/p>\n

Next\u00a0Page<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Some weavers leave lots of loose ends all over the\u00a0hat. All weavers leave loose ends at the brim edge. Even after the rematadora\u00a0and the azocador have woven the brim edge, the loose ends will\u00a0remain. After the azocador finishes, the hat goes to the\u00a0cortador. The cortador will work on each hat, two maybe even three times, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":63,"featured_media":1010,"parent":86,"menu_order":18,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"tour-page.php","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-104","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/104","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/63"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=104"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/104\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3609,"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/104\/revisions\/3609"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/86"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1010"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/stage.brentblack.com\/cart\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=104"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}